Often a Westerner's first question in South Africa is: "But where's the bathroom?" The photo shows a bowl with a quarter inch of steaming water in my bedroom one morning, in the pre-dawn light -- delivered by the mother of the house. That was my "bathroom" -- although I can't fully say that it was "my" bathroom, as people wandered in and out -- there was no door. Temperatures were below freezing outside. You may click on the image to enlarge to VGA.